Paris - Day 5 Paris's Best Maitre'd at Helene Darroze

Oct 8, 2010

When you're in Paris, you expect to eat well.  Your will power will be tested every minute, you have to fight NOT to eat everything in sight.  The food is visually pleasing, and it beckons you (you know you're in trouble when a pyramid of rainbow colored macaroons wink at you... or is it just me?).  On our way back to our apartment from the rue Cler market neighborhood, I suggested that we stop at La Salon d'Helene Darroze, for tapas and cocktails in our own 6th arrondisment, in the St. Germaine neighborhood.  Restaurant Helene Darroze is an upscale gourmet restaurant serving southwestern cuisine of the Basque country, and Le Salon resides on the lower level of the restaurant (or so I read).  Helene Darroze is one of two women chefs who is michelin starred in France, but more importantly, her food has had rave reviews and is noted for putting a twist on classic French food, whether with fresh local ingredients or worldly spices.  We arrived around 8:00 pm and entered through the dark glass doors.  The hostess stands guard at the tall table directly behind the door and you can hear the usual noise of the dining room, clinking of glasses, silverware moving about, whispered conversations, an errant cough.  It is just a few feet away but draped in dark, thick fabric.  The drapes were drawn, making it all the more curiouser.

Restaurant Helene Darroze - 4 Rue d'Assas, Paris

I asked if we could dine in the Salon, but they didn't seem to acknowledge the Salon, the hostess asked the maitre'd if there were any tables available, and the tall well groomed animated maitre'd was broken hearted that we didn't come in a few minutes earlier, when he gave away his last table.  He truly looked distressed, but in a humorous way.  I noticed a small bar area separate from the dining room just off the entry way, I asked if we could sit there?  He checked with someone?  Maybe Helene?  He came back all smiles and situated us in the cozy bar area in a casual but comfortable low seats and small round tables.  We were in!  Not only in, VIP-in.  I still don't know where the Salon was hidden? After serving us a flute of bubbly, we were in for the one of most entertaining meals of our lives, and the food was delectable.

Helene comes from a long line of chefs at her family's Relais & Chateau empire, but she didn't decide to become a chef herself until 1990 when she found herself working for Alain Ducasse in Monaco after getting her business degree.  She is an innovator within the framework of classical French cuisine, which is why her food is contemporary, with old world flavors.  This is her eight course meal.

First course:  French caviar... in jelly, 

Gillardeau oyster tartare, chilled cauliflower veloute

2nd Course: Duperier's duck foie gras from "les landes"... 

confit with spices, chutney of figs from Sollies

3rd Course:  Line-caught calamari... and sauteed blue lobster, 

Joel Thiebault's Swiss chard, iberico lomo, 

slightly bitter jus with Taggiasche olives, confit tomatoes 

4th Course:  Ceps from Bordeaux...
raviole in a poultry cooking jus, lardo di Colonnata,
kokotxas, parmesano reggiano foam

5th Course:  John Dory.... seared on one side,
Fregola sarda, paella vegetables and jus 

6th Course:  Mallard... roasted breast,
presse of confit legs, celery puree and black truffle dressing

7th Course:  Apples and quinces...
Ceylan cinnamon perfumed panna cotta, green apple jelly,
 quince sherbet, crunchy cake 

8th Course:  Manjari chocolate... passion fruit tart

Oh... and the extra course.... chocolate popsicles

As I said the food was delicious and the presentation amazing.  But it was the maitre'd, Nadir from Morocco, that made this meal possible and beyond memorable.

At the end of our meal, Nadir took us behind the scenes to meet the chef, not chef Helene, she was in London overlooking another restaurant project.  On our way to the kitchen, we got glimpse of the "dinning room", a dark space with lush seats, more of a den than a formal dining room.  We watch Chef Joel Thiebault execute and plat the well thought out menu of Helene Darroze - so exciting!

Chef Joel Thiebault plating

Be sure to put Restaurant Helene Darozze on your next Paris itinerary, and prepare to be dazzled by the exciting food, great service and Nadir, the BEST maitre'd in all of Paris.